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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.